A recent report about cancerous synthetic hair extensions has sparked a heated conversation, prompting the Black beauty community to question if there are alternatives for protective styles.

According to a study published in Consumer Reports, toxins were found in 10 brands of synthetic braiding.

“The products were tested for heavy metals and volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which can pose health risks such as cancer and hormonal disruption. Users of synthetic braiding hair products have reported negative skin reactions,” the study reported.

Out of the 10 brands, two samples were taken from each. Within those samples, the report stated that cancer-causing ingredients were found in all of them. Each sample contained additional toxic chemicals when heated to a boiling point, including lead, which was detected in 90% of the samples.

According to the study, the toxic chemicals released when hair is dipped in boiling hot water could lead to nausea, dizziness, reproductive issues and hormonal imbalance. Extended lead exposure has been linked to brain damage and a disruption of the nervous system.

Brands included in the study were Sensationnel, including the hair product company’s Ruwa, X-Pression and Lulutress Crochet brands of braiding hair. Also included were Magic Fingers 3X Stretched Braiding Hair; Sassy Collection Kanekalon Jumbo Braid; Shake-N-Go FreeTress and Organique Mastermix; Hbegant Afro Twist; Debut Wavy Hair Weave and Darling Flexi Rod Curls Crochet.

Our Black Hair Matters , an informational resource for Black hair consumers, held a fireside chat on March 6 with hair scientist Dr. Crystal Porter, Spelman College assistant professor of chemistry and biochemistry Dr. Michelle Gaines, process development engineer Amber Matthews, and cosmetic sales manager Kenton Hipsher.

Each panelist agreed that the report was a good start for investigating hair products geared towards Black consumers. They also expressed concerns that the report was not cohesive enough to provide strict directions for consumers seeking to abstain from synthetic hair brands.

“There have not been enough Black women, in particular, involved in research because there are things about what we do in our culture, there are things in our environment. We are exposed to things that other groups are not,” Porter said.

“Until we start doing more studies, until some of these manufacturers start doing research studies on us … then, I don’t think it’s valid.”

Hipsher agreed. “This is a really big issue in our community, not only just braiding but cosmetics as a whole,” he said.

“The problem is, we aren’t demanding it at all,” Porter said. “We are trusting what we use.”

Despite the panelists considering the Consumer Reports study as a preliminary investigation, there is anxiety within the beauty community.

“It’s kind of scary to be a braider and then to have all of these things come out about braiding hair,” Alicia Balem, owner of mobile provider The Braid Palace in Atlanta, said in an interview with UATL.

Swella Beauty owner Brooke Hill also voiced apprehension.

“When I first saw [the report], like a lot of Black women, I felt a sense of fear,” she said. “It felt like a dark cloud over me because I wear braids all the time. I felt like this was almost taboo.”

Hill referenced previous reports of cancerous ingredients in chemical straighteners that have also plagued the Black hair community.

“It almost felt targeted,” she said. “I feel like there’s not enough research done when it comes to Black women and the products that we consume.”

Essence of Braiding and Weaving Hair Studio owner Dionne James echoed similar thoughts about an alleged lack of regard to Black women’s health. She explained that until recently, many braiders burned the bottom of braids to meld the synthetic ends together. Now, braids are dipped in boiling hot water to seal the ends.

“I used to think, ‘This stinks so bad; it can’t be good for us,'” she said, adding that the burning process used to darken her fingertips.

Hylan Moriel, the owner of Moriel’s Collection of hair and hair studio, was also afraid of what effects of the fumes from the boiling water. As a stylist, she said she understood that braids may have caused tension, hair breakage, allergic reactions and alopecia, but was shocked to hear that chemicals in synthetic braids could be linked to cancer.

“It’s very frustrating,” she told UATL. “All we’re trying to do is protect our hair, protect our crown. … Something that we think is as simple as getting our hair done. It’s causing cancer. That’s just not fair.”

Though each stylist was upset by the news of synthetic hair, they all agreed that there were possibly other braiding options.

First, each stylist mentioned a specific wash to cleanse the hair for clients who are more sensitive to synthetic braiding hair.

Hill said she offers the apple cider vinegar rinse for her clients. However, it’s a lengthy process that can take 20 minutes for each bundle of hair before any braiding begins.

“Every bundle, you have to make sure there’s the appropriate water-to-apple-cider-vinegar ratio so that it’s actually effective,” Hill explained, adding that the synthetic hair has a change in texture once the coating has been removed.

“Apple cider vinegar is used for cleaning,” Balem said, noting she generally uses three packs of hair with three bundles for each client.

Outside of attempts to cleanse the synthetic hair, stylists referenced natural, biodegradable hair brands to use.

Moriel is a partner with plant-based extension brand Rebundle, which uses banana fibers.

“Once that video went viral about the cancer-causing issues,” Moriel said, “I had tons of people reaching out to get [Rebundle’s] hair.”

She noted that her product is more expensive than synthetic braids and not as accessible.

“One pack costs $30. You need at least three for one style. That’s $90 just for the braiding hair, compared to where you would only spend $10 on [synthetic] braiding hair,” Moriel explained.

“Another issue is mass production. I have people trying to get their hair done this week,” she continued. However, the company is telling me it’s going to take two weeks [to get an order].

“You might not want to wait two weeks to get your hair done. I don’t know. It’s very frustrating.”

Stylists also suggested the use of human hair for braiding, but that tends to be more expensive than the plant-based brand.

“There are people who only get human hair for their braids,” Balem said. “So, that is an option for some people. But for the people who can’t afford to really splurge on their hair, the options are slim.”

James, on the other hand, believed the healthiest option was going natural.

“There’s nothing wrong with hair extensions, if it’s safe,” James said.

Still, she didn’t think the report on synthetic hair being linked to cancer would stop Black women from getting extensions.

“I don’t really think it will affect business,” she said. “People know they’re going to die and could possibly get cancer from smoking cigarettes, and they still smoke them. I don’t think it’s going to matter.”

The stylists agreed that the responsibility of healthy hair production relies on hair companies, but also said Black consumers bear the responsibility of becoming more aware of what toxins could be present in the products they use.

“It’s part of the culture: braids, wigs, sewing, all this stuff. It’s part of the culture. So, I don’t think that’s going to stop,” Moriel said.

“Now, since people are more aware, I think it will give opportunities to these small businesses who are thinking about the health of our hair, who are trying to advocate for us. I feel like now it’s time to pour into those businesses.”

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